Sanshan Guowang (Three Mountain Kings)

Legend says the Three Mountain Kings were once three sworn brothers at the end of the Sui dynasty — the eldest, Lian Jie, King of Jinshan; the second, Zhao Xuan, King of Mingshan; the third, Qiao Jun, King of Dushan — who protected the villagers and drove off bandits in a lawless age. Later, when Emperor Taizong of Song marched against the Northern Han, the three mountain gods appeared to aid his army. For this they were made kings, and the court granted their temple the plaque "Mingkuang." Another account holds that they were simply the nature gods of three mountains, given more and more human form as dynasty after dynasty added to their titles.

But in Taiwan, the Kings' story was written mostly in the sweat and blood of Hakka settlers. In the Qing era, when clashes between immigrant groups were frequent, Hakka settlements were often outnumbered, and the Sanshan Guowang temple was usually the village's main defensive stronghold — where the temple stood, the line held, and that's where the people made their stand. The Kings were more than gods; in turbulent times they were the Hakka answer to "who are we, and what are we defending?"

That is why, whenever Hakka families moved, they first went to the Sanshan Guowang temple to carry incense with them, then built a new temple when they reached their new home. The mountain gods followed the people, and the protection of the homeland never fell away.

Worship of the Three Mountain Kings keeps many Hakka traditions. Offerings center on the Three Sacrifices (pork, chicken and fish), fruit, tea and wine — with more weight placed on pork than in Hoklo worship. The order matters: offer incense first at the Heaven Censer, then to the First, Second and Third Kings in turn. Sanshan Guowang temples in Hakka villages usually also enshrine Han Wengong (Han Yu) and the local earth god, Bo Gong, so you can pay your respects to them as well.

The Kings' birthday on the 25th day of the 2nd lunar month is the event of the year, marked with Hakka bayin ensemble music and opera performed for the gods. Some temples still choose the year's "censer master" by casting moon blocks, and that person then oversees the year's ceremonies.

Nothing shows the weight of this faith better than an old Hakka custom: before moving house or village, you first go to the Sanshan Guowang temple to carry incense with you, and build a new temple at your new home — the guardian always walks ahead of the family.

The Kings' Holy Birthday on the 25th day of the 2nd lunar month is the most important festival at Sanshan Guowang temples everywhere, with birthday ceremonies and banquets held at each temple.